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MazdaSpeed3 - Injector & Intake Manifold Removal

Discussion in 'DIY & How To's' started by derrian, Apr 22, 2011.

  1. Derrian

    Derrian Guest

    Courtesy: Jimmer307
    Link: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f111/how-injector-intake-manifold-removal-73170/


    Injector seal Write-up
    Tools needed:
    Pliers
    3/8 Ratchet
    3/8 extensions
    3/8 swivel
    Sockets: 8mm, 10mm, & 12mm
    12mm Wrench (P/S bolt)
    Pulley tensioner tool or 14mm (Belt)
    Adjustable wrench (EGR Tube)
    Injector socket / extractor (If corroded)
    T40 Torx bit (Fuel Rail)

    Here is the engine bay with the TMIC still on. I have an ETS TMIC, but I assume if you are willing to attempt to change the injectors or seals on your own you already know how to remove the TMIC.
    There are 2 hose clamps and a few 10mm bolts.
    There is also a vacuum line and intake hose that run to the back of the BOV that must be removed.
    [​IMG]

    Remove the Vacuum Regulator thing that sit’s on top of the Manifold
    (4) 8mm Bolts
    [​IMG]

    Remove the 3 clips that are in the front left of the manifold by the power steering pump.
    You will also need to remove the 2 bolts that attach the wiring harness to the manifold as well as the 1 bolt that holds the dip stick on to the manifold.
    [​IMG]

    Power Steering Pump Removal:
    (3) 12 mm bolts
    (1) Ground
    There are 2 bolts in plain sight. One the one closest to the manifold you can get to with a ratchet. The other requires a wrench.
    There is 1 more bolt underneath the pump that you can get to with an extension.
    PS Before
    [​IMG]
    PS After
    [​IMG]

    Throttle Body:
    (4) 8mm bolts
    1 Wiring harness clip
    There are 4 that hold the TB to the IM. It is pretty straight forward.
    I removed the bolts and the clip and just moved it out of the way to avoid having to deal with spilling coolant.
    [​IMG]

    To remove Intake Manifold:
    (8) 10mm bolts
    There are two vacuum hoses that you need to remove in front of the manifold & 1 more connected to the valve control module.
    There is 1 wiring harness attached that needs to be valve control module that needs to be removed as well
    [​IMG]
    To remove the one with the red clip, push down on the read clip and pull up on the vacuum hose.
    To remove the one with the blue clip, pry the blue clip off and the vacuum hose will slip off.
    There are 5 bolts that hold the manifold on that are easy to see. The far most bolt on the top is under the runner highlighted in red. There are 2 bolts that hold the manifold to the fuel rail bracket. There is one more bolt that is not visible that is to the left of the EGR tube.
    You will also need to remove the EGR tube, I used an adjustable wrench.
    You will have to reach under the manifold to reach the PCV hose and pull it off. It is on the far left side of the manifold, but you must reach from the right in order to get access to it.
    [​IMG]

    Fuel Rail Bracket:
    (2) 10mm bolts
    [​IMG]

    Fuel Rail:
    (5) 10mm bolts (Attached to Block)
    (4) T40 Torx bolts
    (2) 10mm bolts (Attached to Fuel Line)
    The yellow dot indicate the vacuum hose to the fuel rail.
    The green indicate the 2 10mm bolts that hold the fuel line to the rail.
    The red dots indicate 5 10mm bolts that hold the rail to the block.
    The blue dots indicate 4 Torx bolts that hold the crows feet to the block and hold the injectors in place.
    [​IMG]

    Install in reverse order and whala… Your car should now be running like a champ.
     

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